Seduced by Naples

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  1. Newscience

    Newscience Gold Member

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    Seduced by Naples

    December 13, 2013

    Seduced by Naples
    By RACHEL DONADIO
    It doesn’t take long to understand Naples.

    Once you make your way through the unruly traffic, honking horns, locals shouting in thick dialect across alleys lined with wet laundry, past racy black lace garters on display in shop windows, shrines to the Madonna with blue neon and plastic flowers set into palazzo walls, churches decorated with carved skulls, women squeezed into their shirts and spike heels, immigrants selling knockoff bags, helmetless teenagers on mopeds racing the wrong way down slippery one-way streets, and everywhere the smells of strong coffee, fried dough, fresh clams and the breeze blowing in from the sea — it is immediately clear that two primal forces drive this magnificent chaos of a city: life and death.

    Maybe it’s the location, set on that wide bay that looks out on movie-set-perfect Capri and its poorer cousin, Ischia, and the most storied active volcano in the world at the city’s shoulders, Vesuvius, inescapable memento mori. Or maybe it’s the history of colonization — first by Greeks, then Romans, Normans and after them the Spanish, and later even Italians, and the lingering presence of organized crime. But this is a city that has seen it all, survived most of it, and, if you have the patience to explore it, will win you over and never let you go.

    Its spell can be powerful. More than elegant, restrained Florence or show-offy Rome, with its perfect, ruined beauty, and even more than otherworldly Venice, I would argue it is earthy, squalid, slightly menacing Naples that is one of the most romantic cities in the world.

    Read the rest of this article here:

    http://www.nytimes.com/2013/12/15/travel/seduced-by-naples.html?nl=travel&emc=edit_tl_20131214&_r=0
     
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  2. Sweet Willie
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    Sweet Willie Gold Member

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    Mrs & I loved our recent time in Napoli, this reminds me I have to finish my trip report.
     
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